eco living: sustainability + the future of vegan leather

why sustainable designers choose vegan leather

today we’re going to explore the leather industry + the alternative leather textiles available. we’ll start with polyurethane and in the coming weeks we’ll explore plant based leathers including pineapple leather, apple leather, cactus leather, mushroom leather, corn leather and more. from our friends at sans beast, a luxe, vegan handbag company:

the rise of vegan leather

“did you know there are 70 billion animals slaughtered yearly for our food and/or fashion consumption? there is a commonly held view that leather is a by-product of the food industry. in fact, it is considered a profitable co-product. in addition, many animals are raised purely for their hides.

animal based leather is an incredibly profitable yet destructive industry. 90% of the worlds fashion leather is chrome tanned + will not biodegrade {chrome tanning is the only way to achieve the majority of desired fashion tones in a consistent + cost effective manner}.

“Synthetic alternatives to leather are less environmentally damaging than animal hide procurement, tanning + production - and hands down, more ethically sound.”

— Cathryn Wills

we come full circle back to the question of ethics + what rates as important to consumers. i believe there is a great deal of misinformation in the market - the main one being that leather is the natural bi-product of the meat industry + therefore we are being responsible by using it for product manufacture. but just like any industry, supply is based on demand, and demand is often based on marketing. leather is a co-product of the meat industry - and as per aplf reporting in november 2018, the global leather goods market is worth usd 95.4 billion in 2018 and will reach usd 128.61 billion by 2022 at a growth rate of 4.36% during the forecasted period. these numbers are not a lucky coincidence that there just happens to be enough animals slaughtered to cater to this market - it's by design + it's driven. 

we’ve chosen to focus on the inordinate damage that factory farming does to the environment as well as the exploitation of animals that exists in this industry, and combat these issues, with making non leather bags instead – and we work tirelessly to create bags that are well designed + manufactured to instill a loyalty to the product from our customer, thus inhibiting any desire to send it to landfill.  

there is an excellent 2017 report by the global fashion agenda that rates several raw materials, cradle to gate, in terms of environmental impact - and it highlights that leather rates substantially worse than synthetic leather on three out of the four measured traits - global warming, water scarcity, eutrophication. indeed, cow leather is in the top three raw materials in terms of negative impact - sitting amongst cotton, wool + silk.  synthetic leather fares worse in abiotic resource depletion (the fourth pillar on which the materials have been rated) which is related to fossil fuels. so, is synthetic leather really an inferior option on the environmental front?

Sustainable Apparel Coalition’s Higg Material Sustainability Index tool.

an alternative to leather

we're not going to greenwash this situation. our bags are not made of soil + sunshine. they are constructed from a good quality polyurethane {pu} which is a base fabric coated with a painted surface + then embossed with various textures. this is no single use catastrophe we're carrying around. polyurethane {pu} is a highly resilient, flexible and durable material. it is a polymer joined by urethane links - used as a coating to give textiles a wide variety of properties including the ability to be water-resistant and anti-bacterial.

invented in the late 1930s as a potential replacement for rubber {which was in short supply post wwi}, pu has become a prolific material, used in everyday life (fridges, washing machines, car interiors, the list is long). the pu we utilize, does not use toxic levels of chemicals in production, with the fabrics adhering to the chemical standards of reach + prop65 {the californian toxic enforcement act of 1986}. synthetic alternatives to leather are less environmentally damaging than animal hide procurement, tanning + production - and hands down, more ethically sound. 

we continue to source + sample alternatives - with our next step being, to use more {primarily} plant based + recycled materials. when we say 'primarily' in relation to plant based, we refer to the fact that for a plant based fabric for fashion handbag construction to have longevity + remain 'good looking' it does generally need to have a coating of some description, and this is typically a polymer of some sort.  

acrylic + cellulosic acetate

we use both acrylic and cellulosic acetate in trims + charms in our collections. acrylic is a plastic, and was developed 
in the 1920s, as a shatterproof alternative to glass. other names for acrylic
 - plexiglas, acrylite, perspex + lucite – are all trademarked names. acrylic is thermoplastic + becomes malleable under high heat, as a result, we are able to mold it into shapes such as our distinctive luggage handle. cellulosic acetate was created in the late 1800s + refined further in the early 20th century.  cellulosic acetate has a long winded construction, but in simple terms – it’s a combination of wood pulp (the cellulosic part) + a mixed bag of chemical compounds. It offers transparency, a beautiful color spectrum, flexibility + is hypoallergenic. it’s been utilized for film, fabric, lacquer + eyewear over the years.”

{don’t forget the tip} the workers tasked with leather preparation across the global community have consistent exposure to toxic chemicals and a shortened life span. videos can be hard to watch, when we are educating ourselves about the leather industry and its impact on the environment, the exposure to toxic chemicals for the workers who treat + process the animal hides, and the animals themselves. if you’re interested in learning more, and words are the best way to drink in new information, pop into a local bookstore or cruise your favorite online indie bookshop to purchase eating animals by jonathan safran foer.

until next time, stay green dear hearts!

eco brand: the 108 handbags, socially conscious style

into africa

today’s ethical brand, the one08, takes us to the pastoral landscape of eastern africa to the il ngwesi wildlife conservancy. spanning 16,500 acres of lush low plains + highlands, il ngwesi is a community-led + operated conservation initiative in northern kenya, a sanctuary for the critically endangered black rhino, the white rhino, the african elephant + the grevy’s zebra. the vision of the conservation initiative is to sustainably manage the land to conserve wildlife.

this is not just a bag

the one08 is an eco, vegan handbag label created with the purpose of participating in the conservation of wildlife + the protection of our planet. how does a simple product like a handbag contribute to the conservation of biodiversity? the root of the answer lies in the company name. the number 108 was considered the basis of all creation in ancient cultures and traditions. co-founders jamie travis + marnie quinn came together to create the one08, 1 representing the individual, 0 representing the collective and 8 representing the infinite.

“Hearing the fierce roar of a lion just a few feet away is like coming heart to heart with the seat of creation itself. It is not only through the sound but through the resulting vibration in your heart. This permanently changed the way I view our place in the world. My life mission is to speak for the wildlife as they cannot speak for themselves.”

the one08

33% of the profits from the sale of every the one08 handbag is used to purchase equipment and provide training for the people at il ngwesi so that they may continue to live in symbiosis with the land + wildlife.**

every purchase of a cruelty-free, handcrafted product provides viable means of employment, thus allowing the maasai people to live in harmony with wildlife + their environs. the founders of remind us that long term wildlife conservation can only be achieved by working with the communities that inhabit the same land, “our solution is providing economic opportunity for these communities.”

do no harm

it started with a visit to south africa in 2013, where a deep passion for wildlife conservation was ignited. “hearing the fierce roar of a lion just a few feet away is like coming heart to heart with the seat of creation itself. it is not only through the sound but through the resulting vibration in your heart. this permanently changed the way i view our place in the world. my life mission is to speak for the wildlife as they cannot speak for themselves. “

forward thinking

as a conscious consumer, i have been seeking an ethically produced + vegan handbag to travel with me, across town or across continents, and the one08 has captured my heart for their lofty mission and design-led handbags that are transforming an entire community in kenya and conserving wildlife while protecting the environment. all the one08 designs are made with vegan leather, including an innovative plantbased, pineapple leaf fiber, all lined with a happy flora + fauna print made of 100% recycled plastic bottles.

the one08 bag has been my trusty companion, as i stay put for now during these precarious times and appreciate simple pleasures like native vegetation, fresh spring breezes and the scent of fresh blooms on my way to the market. i dream of visiting the il ngwesi eco lodge with friends in the future. when the time comes, i’ll carry this powerful product with me. for now, i love to dream + scheme as i look forward with anticipation to future adventures.

i’ll be holding this bag on my arm as my nomadic soul trots across the globe for all future grand explorations.

don’t forget the tip: **the wildlife conservancy is home to a breathtaking eco lodge hand built by maasai tribal members on the model of responsible tourism and is both owned and managed by the maasai people. the maasai people benefit from sustainable development projects funded by the conservancy including adequate medical care, job training and education for local schoolchildren. let us travel to africa, my friends, at least via our imaginations until we can voyage there one fine day: click here to travel to il ngwesi.

until next time, stay green dear hearts!

{eco boutique} the rescued collection: an eco, online thrift shop

the propensity to rescue dates back as far as my mind can reach. and not just defenseless animals. dusty, old books? i want them; i'll read them all. antique furniture left in the alley next to my flat? guess who's coming home with me tonight? clothes that no one else wants? i'll dust them off + wear them or reconstruct them. i see value in almost everything.

there's a little online eco boutique called bead + reel that you may already know about {i wrote about it previously here on finny + dill, singing high praises for this woman-founded + woman-run retail shop: that's right, it's entirely run by one fierce woman}, but did you know that owner sica schmitz has created an online resale shop that sells only vegan + ethically made wares? sica also won the sustainable business council's small business award this year. here's what the animal activist, shrewd eco entrepreneur + one of my fave everyday heroes had to say about acknowledging women's accomplishments + why size doesn't matter:

before we hear words of wisdom from sica, a woman with a powerful will, i wanted to take a moment to introduce you to her fantastic new online second-hand shop that she has incorporated on bead + reel, her fab retail website. this is no ordinary collection of pre-loved clothes. the rescued collection is made up of eco, ethical + vegan wares only. which means you can purchase gently used + like new apparel, footwear + accessories from some of the best sustainable fashion labels for a fraction of the original price. 

“the average american throws out 70 pounds of textiles each year, according to the council for textile recycling.”

and it's so very easy. just drop the free shipping label into your cart, press send; within 24 hours you'll receive the ups label which you can print from home, then ta da! send your package via post, then receive a payment via paypal or keep the credit to purchase a shiny new bauble or that new set of strappy heels you've been eyeing. trust me, this is a great way to save money on eco items you'd like to invest in or to save your garments from the belly of the whale: and my that i mean the landfill. 

and now sica speaketh the truth. sica talks size, and why it doesn't matter: it was very intimidating to enter this competition as a one-person, $100,000 business competing in the same category as $1 million companies with teams of employees. there is a vast difference in resources and capabilities, and i am well aware of that. but for a small sole proprietorship to win means that any individual has the power to build their own business and to start creating their own unique impacts. don't wait until you're "big enough" to change the world; you, yourself, are capable of it right now.

as a woman whose company honors the earth by stocking only products that are made with respect to our natural resources, to people + to animals, i loved what she had to say about the importance of trees:

one of my friends asked how much money came with this award, and i had to laugh. this award offers only recognition, and a tree. a beautiful "giving tree" - a ming aralia, and it was probably the most meaningful award i could have received. my father used to give away thousands of trees every year to my hometown community - little douglas fir seedlings, free to anyone who would love them. his friends and clients and strangers would plant their jace trees - named in his honor - on their properties, and some people had decades worth of jace trees growing at their homes. he died 5 years ago, so he never got to see bead + reel or the tree that i won this week. however, his jace trees live on, a beautiful and constant reminder that our impact on the world doesn't end when we leave this earth. so give trees, and plant trees, and live the kind of life that continues to grow, even after you are gone.

and finally, sica reminds us why female leadership matters: 

bead + reel is an entirely woman-founded, women-owned, woman-run business, and it is only in acknowledging more women's accomplishments that we can start to shift towards a reality where there are as many large companies run by men as by women.

thank you to sica for her work as a pioneering entrepreneur  + a rockin' role model. 

{don't forget the tip} when i first learned that people across the world dispose of used clothing, i was completely discombobulated. the average american throws out 70 pounds of textiles each year, according to the council for textile recycling. that just won't do. there are many options for recycling your gently-worn apparel + footwear. don't send those gently used items to the landfills, instead give them new life by donating them or selling them. now get ready to shop small. want to know what other options exist for redirecting the destiny of those perfectly wearable clothes in your closet? check out this post at litterless. 

{eco apparel: wearing organic cotton top by groceries apparel + fair trade jeans by monkee genes; find your own fair trade treasures at bead + reel}

until next time, stay green dear hearts!

{simple pleasures} coming home: rentrer à la maison

“It’s a funny thing coming home. nothing changes.

Everything looks the same, feels the same, even smells the same.

You realize what’s changed is you.”

— F. Scott Fitzgerald

rentre à la masion: it struck me long ago while traveling far from home that there's no place that smells quite like chicago. close to lake michigan, cool winds carry an aqueous + water grass bouquet along with the distinct smell of fresh lake water. "water grass" is how my french friends translate  the word "seaweed". i truly cherish this scent, it's definitely one of my fave simple pleasures

{eco mode: wearing a black, organic cotton sweater by slow fashion label bon label, 30-wears skirt shopped from my own closet + a structured cross-body from ethical luxury handbag brand angela roi from fave eco boutique bead + reel.

{green heart series} meet thara of moss + stone

hurraw! today i'm excited to introduce a new series i’m calling the green heart series, in which an extraordinary sustainable living enthusiast is showcased each week. you'll meet passionate thought leaders, young activists and seasoned environmentalists, all working to disseminate information + create positive change. each is devoted to promoting social justice + human rights, protecting the environment and advocating on behalf of animals.

the people you will meet are compassionate, intelligent, driven, fierce + funny. they come from all walks of life and from all across the globe; they are a world of creators: writers, artists, photographers, singers, sewers, entrepreneurs, makers, dreamers and doers. they have also had a great impact on my life in numerous ways. they make me laugh, they make me think, they stretch my mind to new limits, and certainly, they galvanize me to live a more thoughtful life.

meet our first young eco hero, thara, healthy living aficionado + ardent animal rights advocate. find out which personal quality she would never change about herself, the private part of her life she chose to disclose in her quest to help others and what her parents had to say when she encouraged them to explore a plant-based diet.

i'd just returned home from a long day at work, when i tumbled across thara's food-centric instagram account; those that know me know that cooking is not my forte, so her

simple recipes were exactly what i needed. i follow lots of foodie ig accounts, but my surrealist rendering of their elegant meals, an unintentional dalí painting across my dinner plate, left me craving easy, no-fuss recipes. that night, i decided to peruse thara's youtube channel. i was exhausted, and i was hoping to find uncomplicated recipes + tips for healthy living, as promised by the raven-haired, melbourne-based vlogger and blogger at moss + stone. what i discovered so much more than this.

in one of thara's first videos, "five ways i'm treating anxiety + depression naturally," she shares, with unpretentious poise, honesty + maturity, her personal journey of being bullied, battling depression and how she now manages her anxiety naturally, holistically. 

in a world where speaking of mental health is taboo, i'm always struck by the valor + strength of those that choose to peel back the top lacquered layers of their lives in an earnest effort to aid + comfort others affected by the same conditions. i admire the courage with which thara unveils her symptoms + how she copes using a healthy diet, mindful meditation, mineral supplements, chinese medicine and earthing*. 

thara has been vlogging for over a year now, and whether she's unveiling a new nutrient-dense recipe for a berry smoothie or a plant-based chocolatey dessert, thara offers up healthy living tips that make eating right a snap + getting fit achievable. here, thara, shares a bit about her inspirations + motivations:

live / vivre

1/ what is one action you might encourage others to take to live a more sustainable lifestyle?

the biggest difference someone can make to the environment by way of cutting back greenhouse emissions, saving water, and stopping rain forest destruction is by going vegan. animal agriculture is the number one cause for the destruction of our planet - you can watch a documentary called cowspiracy to understand just how this is so, or check out their fact page here for information and sources. in a nutshell, livestock and their byproducts account for at least 32,000 million tons of carbon dioxide (CO2) per year, or 51% of all worldwide greenhouse gas emissions; it takes 2,500 gallons of water to produce 1 pound of beef  and 1,000 gallons of water to produce 1 gallon of milk; and animal agriculture has been found to be the leading cause of species extinction, ocean dead zones, water pollution, and habitat destruction.

2/ what is your favorite eco online retailer or brick + mortar shop? my favorite online retailer is love child - it is a store run by two awesome aussie girls who sell some great ethical brands like her pony and kerol k, while emphasizing the necessity of living compassionate lifestyles in order to sustain our planet's resources and save innocent lives. 

flourish | fleurir

3/ what is one personal quality about yourself that you would never change?

i would have to say my empathy. it is what caused me to turn vegetarian at age 8 after seeing a documentary about meat production and the way animals were treated as commodities. it is what has made me become an animal rights supporter and environmentalist, as i care very deeply about other living beings and for the future of our planet. 

4/ share four things that make you really happy.

my cats (misty and casper); salted caramel coconut ice-cream; making my own herbal tea from the herbs in my garden; and farm animal sanctuaries (the work they do to help animals have a second chance at life is inspirational).

inspired | inspiré

5/ it takes a lot of time + dedication to create engaging videos or content. what motivates you to do so?

what motivates me to work on and plan this content is the fact that my small and humble amount of followers are so beautiful and supportive and really care about what i post. i value their opinions and love working with their suggestions to come up with posts/videos that i know they really want to see.

6/ which person do you most admire and why?

celebrity wise, i would have to say emily deschanel. i've loved her ever since my teen days when i first saw her on bones. In real life she has been a vegan for almost 20 years, and has spoken out about animal rights and environmentalism. she's a beautiful person inside and out, and is a talented actress too. hitting closer to home, i admire my parents a great deal. they worked hard to raise my sister and i in a foreign country, and sacrificed a lot so that we could receive a good education and made sure we were healthy with a roof over our heads. after watching documentaries like earthlings and cowspiracy, they too have become vegan and the amount of delicious food they make ahhhhh - i never want to leave home! 

wear | porter

7/ describe your favorite go-to ensemble from head to toe. do you have any favorite slow or indie fashion brands? 

my favorite go-to ensemble is always a vintage mini-dress (i have a huge collection in my wardrobe, all of them are op-shop finds) with a pair of sandals. if it's slightly chillier, than i opt for my high-waist jeans, op-shop sweater and a pair of comfy sneakers. my favorite brand would have to be her pony - they are melbourne-based and make some beautiful festival-style clothing. they are also vegan and cruelty-free, so i love the fact that they are showing people that you can be stylish and compassionate at the same time. for natural + cruelty-free beauty products in australia, change box is a subscription box that curates amazing products by companies that make a difference in the world for people, animals and the environment. 

interested in learning more about thara? click on over to follow her on twitter, ig, on youtube or at moss + stone.

{don't forget the tip} *every boy + girl should learn how negative ions ward off lethargy + headaches and promote focus while having a pronounced anti-depressant affect. negative ions are your friends: find out where you can stock up on these: watch thara's videos to learn more. 

until next time, stay green dear hearts!

{images of thara by michael blamey / emily deschanel via laika magazine / pig via mercy for animals / all other images via moss + stone}